Director, Material Innovation & Global Strategy

alexanderwang•New York, NY

3d•$165,000 - $175,000•Hybrid

About The Position

The Director, Materials Innovation & Global Strategy is the creative and strategic leader of the Raw Materials department, setting the vision for fabric research, innovation, and development while overseeing sourcing strategy and a global team across all material categories (fabric, leather, trim, hardware). This role is a true creative partner to Design — bringing original research, market and trend intelligence, and hands-on mill relationships to the table, not simply executing on design direction after the fact. This person must be able to both develop and innovate — turning ideas into real, deliverable materials — and thrive in a creative, fast-paced environment where priorities and timelines shift quickly. The Director owns the business/financial alignment for material sourcing, ensuring innovation is delivered within established pricing matrices, margin targets, and seasonal calendar. This person provides strategic direction, process optimization, and people leadership for the entire department, and ensures that the business requirements are properly met by the Sr. Managers. Sr. Managers are accountable to ensure category performance and profitability are executed based on business needs and work cross functionally with Design, Development, Merchandising, Production and Finance.

Requirements

Bachelor's degree in Fashion, Textile Engineering, Product Development, or related field
10+ years of experience in fabric development and innovation with deep expertise in textiles and specialty materials
Demonstrated track record of original material research and innovation - proprietary or first-to-market materials brought into a collection
Established network of mill and supplier relationships globally, with regular first-hand engagement at mills, trend shows, and fabric fairs
Proven ability to both develop and innovate — executing against seasonal deadlines while continuing to originate new ideas — and to thrive in a creative, fast-paced environment with shifting priorities
Expert knowledge of washes, dyes, finishes, treatments, and fabric properties
Minimum 5+ years of people management and team leadership experience
Proven track record of fabric innovation and leading development strategy in a luxury or contemporary fashion environment
Strong visual aesthetic sense and demonstrated ability to partner directly with Design as a co-creator of material direction, not solely a translator of design intent
Strong business acumen and understanding of material pricing matrices, cost structures, and profitability requirements for fabric sourcing
Demonstrated ability to balance creative vision with business, financial, and calendar constraints
Excellent cross-functional communication and strategic partnership skills, including presenting material direction to Design and executive creative leadership
Experience leading and developing high-performing teams across multiple business units
Demonstrated ability to influence internal and external partners through change and innovation
Regular travel to overseas mills, trend shows, and fabric fairs, in addition to overseas office visits

Responsibilities

Lead the creative vision and innovation strategy for all fabric development across all seasons and product lines.
Conduct ongoing research into emerging fabric technologies, sustainable innovations, and global textile trends; proactively bring new materials, techniques, and ideas to Design ahead of seasonal need — rather than only responding to design requests.
Travel to mills, trend shows, and fabric fairs (e.g. Première Vision, Milano Unica) to source innovation firsthand, build direct mill relationships, and stay ahead of the market.
Serve as a true creative partner to Design — co-develop material direction alongside Design and the creative direction, while balancing creative ambition against price point, margin, and calendar and ensure execution can be achieved through the production process.
Move fluidly between development and innovation — executing on active seasonal needs while continuing to push new ideas forward — in a creative, fast-paced environment where priorities shift quickly.
Drive continuous innovation in sustainable fabrics, performance technologies, and special techniques, including unique finishes, washes, dyes, and treatments.
Lead development of seasonal fabric strategies and own the pre-seasonal development calendar, ensuring innovation is delivered on time and aligned with production and business requirements.
Establish and maintain the Raw Materials library as a brand aesthetic reference for fabric innovation.
Own business and financial alignment for fabric sourcing, ensuring all fabric selections align with established material pricing matrices and margin targets.
Work collaboratively with the Sr Manager, Global Purchasing and Merchandising to build fabric specifications and sourcing strategies that meet both creative and cost objectives.
Understand and operate within material pricing matrix requirements, making informed decisions on fabric choices that deliver both brand aesthetic and profitability.
Lead strategic vendor negotiations to source innovative fabrics within cost parameters and margin guidelines.
Set strategic direction and priorities for the Raw Materials department across all material categories (fabric, leather, trim, hardware).
Define and execute department-wide processes and best practices that scale across all material types.
Coordinate cross-category strategy and ensure cohesion and collaboration across the Raw Materials team.
Hold Sr Managers accountable for profitability and business/financial alignment within their respective categories.
Identify and lead process, development, and supply chain optimization opportunities across all material categories.
Integrate AI technology to create efficiencies across all upstream and downstream processes, including but not limited to raw material product development and production.
Establish and oversee department-wide testing protocols (performance, regulatory, and chemical compliance) and quality standards, with oversight on material end use application. This begins at the tailoring stage based on risk throughout the product lifecycle.
Oversee material inventory, ensuring efficient usage, reallocation, or disposal.
Oversee seasonal recaps highlighting supplier performance, production outcomes, and compliance requirements.
Lead cross-functional alignment with Design, Creative, Development, Merchandising, Production, and Supply Planning on all raw materials strategy.
Act as senior decision-maker on fabric direction, quality escalations, and strategic fabric overrides.
Facilitate collaboration between Sr Managers and creative leaders to ensure materials work cohesively across product categories.
Communicate department strategy and innovations across the organization to ensure alignment with brand vision and commercial objectives.
Lead, develop, and inspire the global Raw Materials team.
Set annual team objectives aligned with global strategy, driving productivity, innovation, engagement, profitability, and continuous improvement.
Provide coaching, feedback, and career development to direct reports and their teams.
Foster strong collaboration and knowledge-sharing across functional silos and material categories.
Own and manage the Raw Materials department budget, travel planning, and resources.
Lead strategic vendor partnerships and negotiations at the department level.